Non Touristy Teotihuacan tour Alternative – Better Pyramids and Diego Rivera Aztec Art Collection in the South of Mexico City
In Mexico ‘Past epochs never vanish completely, and blood still drips from all their wounds, even the most ancient. Sometimes the most remote or hostile beliefs and feelings are found together in one city or one soul, or are superimposed like those pre-cartesian pyramids that almost always conceal others. – The Labyrinth of Solitude, by Octavio Paz
The pyramids, in Mexico, are really awesome, but you have to go through so much dated touristy infrastructure to get to Teotihuacan Tour, that it takes up the entire day. Few know that there are other impressive pyramids in other parts of Mexico City, that you can visit yourself, and have plenty of time to enjoy other complementary things before and after.
To me this is a no brainer.
Some use the pyramids as a way to fill up a Monday in Mexico City, because all the museums are closed on Mondays. I think this is a waste of a Monday. If you’re looking for things to do on a Monday’s read this.
One of the first things I did when I moved to Mexico City is go to the Teotihuacan Pyramids. I had recently visited the Temples in Seam Reap Cambodia, which blew me away, and I was very enthusiastic to see the Mexican Version.
Unfortunately I was disappointed. Not by the pyramids, but by the experience. They are outside of the city, so getting there involves
- Going to a dirty bus station on the North end of the city
- Buying bus tickets in Spanish from a particular bus company which is not clearly marked
- Sitting on an old dirty bus, filled with tourists, for about 1.5 hours, and 1.5 hours back home.
Once you get there you’ll be so close, but so far from the magic of the pyramids. You’ll first have to walk through/passed
- Extremely dated gift shops selling imported Chinese souvenirs
- Aggressive tour guides (most of whom do not speak English) offering their services
Once you get passed the warm welcome you’ll find yourself in a treeless archeological site with some giant and impressive pyramids. But there is absolutely no presentation of anything nor anything that will help you put what you are seeing in context.
The tour guides and junk vendors never really leave you alone. They are scattered all over the site and they take advantage of good natured tourists who aren’t yet accustomed to the necessity of ignoring all sounds around you, like the Mexico City residents have learned to do. So walking around and peacefully soaking up the magic of the ancient land is absolutey impossible.
So what should you do instead?
Tracey Parker’s Prehispanic Mexico City – An Alternative to the Teotihuacan tour Tourist Trap
This is a self guided tour that uses Uber to get from one stop to the next.
Below you will find two sites on the south of the city, that I believe present Mexico’s prehispanic past in a very pleasant and accessible way. If you have finished the Downtown Zocalo Walking Tour yesterday, this will be a very relaxing pace and a great way to relax afterwords.
Pyramids are part of Mexico’s past. You should know a little about them before you go, because there is no explanation at the site. This is also true of Teotithuacan. So I really recommend you read something or at least google some history of Mexico’s Pyramids.
If you haven’t had a moment to read anything, take advantage of the time you’ll be saving and start reading one of the books on this list of Best Books to Read before, during, or after traveling to Mexico City.
Mental Preparation
It is worth noting that the pace is much slower at this pyramid than other parts of Mexico City. Be prepared to just sit or walk around and take in the pyramids. If you need a book, bring one, if you need something to eat, sneak it in (it won’t be too hard).
By the time you get here, you’ll be able to remove your jacket or vest, so feel free to use that as a blanket to use to sit down and enjoy the pyramid.
Remember that this is a peaceful alternative to Teotithuacan. Make sure you’re ready for the peacefulness.
First Stop – Cuicuilco Archaeological Zone
Although not as large, this pyramid is well excavated and even has gardens where you can walk around the entire thing rather quickly.
While it is perfect for a picnic, you never know in Mexico if there will be a private security guard who has determined that food and beverage are not allowed.
I recommend against bringing food that you are not willing to throw away.
Anywhere in Mexico you run the risk of a bag search. Can you refuse these, of course, but you will be denied entry.
But not to worry. Just make sure any illegal drugs are not in plain site when they open your bag. They will not search pockets inside of pockets or anything like that. If it were me I’d eat a brownie that I bought here on my uber on the way there and I’d be good for the entire day.
On the negative side, just as in Teotihuacan, there is very little information presented that will help you put what you are seeing in context. So spend as much time here as you please. It is a quiet refuge where you will have a break from the chaos of CDMX. A wonderful alternative to Teotihuacan which is anything but relaxing.
Best of all you won’t have to spend your entire day here like is required of Teotihuacan. See below for completely non touristy things to fill your afternoon with, down it the South of Mexico City.
Seccond, and Final Stop – Anahuacalli
Hours: Tuesday – Sunday 11:00 AM – 5:30 PM
Closed Monday
After if you are still interested in immersing yourself in Ancient history I recommend taking an Uber, from Cuicuilco to Museo Anahuacalli.
This Museum was constructed by Diego Rivera, as a studio as well as house his extensive collection of ancient Aztec art. It is built to resemble an Aztec pyramid. Here Diego Rivera’s collection of aztec art is on display and it is quite impressive.
Also on the south side of town, this is a great complement to Cuicuilco.
Ending and Next Steps
Depending on when you begin this pairing of Cuicuilco Zona Archaeological Zone and Museo Anahuacalli, you should finish around mid afternoon.
Since you’re south of town, this is a great time to do UNAM and Camino Verde. I have a self guided walking tour for gay travelers in CCU UNAM. The best time to begin that tour is between 2:00 and 3:00.
Tracey Parker’s Tour of UNAM/CU for gay travelers incluedes:
MUAC Contemporary art Museum
Two sit down Options for Lunch.
Gay Cruising in Camino Verde. Where the southern locals and college students go to cruise.
Coyacan
It may surprise you to know that I do not include Coyacan in my south of Mexico City Experience. There is nothing there that deserves a spot on a vacation less than 8 days long.
I think Coyacan has gotten very crowded and touristy and at this point I think it is a skip for me.
The exception is if you’re a big restaurant buff.
While there are 2 restaurants that you can go to at UNAM, which are discussed on the UNAM self guided walking tour, Foodies will be excited to know that there is a fine dining scene in Coyacan.
Sud 777
This restaurant showed up on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. Also located in the south, this is located in Pedregal, part of Delegation Coyacan.
Coyacan also has some good restaurants. At this point in time Tracey Parker has not created a list of recommended restaurants.
If you are a foodie, and you’re doing this tour, you may want to find a Coyacan restaurant to eat a late Mexican Lunch at. This is the perfect time to do it.
You can add on the CCU UNAM Tour after, no problem. Just Keep in Mind that MUAC closes at 6.
Frieda Khalo Museum – Skip it!
Skip it. Stay far away. Ignore me at your peril. If you ignore me you’ll arrive to see an enormous line (no it does not move quickly). If you’re a fan of Frieda Khalo, or would like to become familiar with Mexico’s Most celebrated and internationally famous artist, go to the Museum of Arte Moderno. Her work is always on display in the parmanent collection. This museum also has a amazing track record of hosting some of the best exhibitions in Mexico.
If you want to connect with Mexico’s Ancient Past during your vacation to Mexico City I recommend the following
- Museo Templo Mayor – This museum is located Next to the Metropolitan Cathedral in Zocalo, Mexico City’s Main Square. From the vantage point of the museum you’ll be able to see the magnificent Spanish colonial cathedral standing tall next to a demolished Aztec pyramid. this is the story of the Mexican conquest and it will leave an impression that you’ll never forget. I have a free walking tour around Mexico City’s Main Square/Zocalo that will help you see everything you need to see here.
- Museo Nacional de Antropología. – Most famous museum in mexico. Architectural Masterpiece filled to the brim with Ancient artifacts. The only drawback of this Museum is that it covers so much and it can be overwhelming.
- Follow Tracey Parker’s uber tour to a Archeological site on the south of the city. (Welcome, you’ve arrived. Read on for this experience)
